FONDUE :FLAME,FUN AND SAUCERY

Once apon a time, a very lonely Swiss shepard, tending his flocks on a precipitous and isolated Alpine slope, sat down to eat his customary meal of bread,cheese and wine. "my GOD!" (well perhaps Mein Gott! if he was in a German speaking canton,which is more likely. )"I simply CAN NOT face this stuff AGAIN! There must be ein anderer Weg !"And so,in sheer desperation,he lit a fire under his iron pot(standard shepherd equiptment)and did something that was to shake the food world to its very foundation :he melted the cheeses and wine together in the heated pot,and then dunked his sturdy peasant bread into the hot dreamy mixture.

This,so ledgend has it,was the first fondue. Im not of a mind to dispute this tale. The Swiss,after all ,in addition to making first class cuckoo clocks,growing edelweiss and yodeling are ardent dunkers,starting with thier morning hot cocoa and dipping steadily through after dinner coffee.

FONDUE SANTA CRUZ STYLE

The extra kick ass ingredient in this cheese fondue is Porcini mushrooms, which is found all over the Santa Cruz mountains during the rainy season(which will NEVER end this year...3.2 inches June 4,2011). They will simmer in the cheese imparting a rich earthy nose and the terroir driven effect is so worth the addition to this amazing fondue. If you prefer a simple cheese fondue you are on the wrong page. Ofcourse a classic simple kirsch laden fondue has its place but why oh why be average when here in California we have right in our back yard such amazing gifts from Mother Nature.

4T.  Of a good local Alambic brandy such as OSOCALIS , pure heaven made right in Soquel at Soquel Vineyards Home base, by the former distiller from Germain-Roban waka waka waka
3T arrow root ( binder and thickener so proteins wont jack up your Swiss adventure)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus extra for serving
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
2 cups dry white wine, such as Sauvignon Blanc
1 Big  garlic clove, minced
1t. gresh grated nutmeg or for cool factor grate the nutmeg righ before searving to get garlic smell off your digets and the perfume of the spice will be heaven. Last the little red freckles of nutmeg on top is visual candy.
as much fresh black pepper as your heart desires my muffin.
1 pound high quality alpine cheese such as Gruyère, Emmental, Comté. grated
1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms,wizz em in the spice grinder to a coarse grind.
1 loaf peasant bread, cut in 3/4 inch cubes. or more....boiled fingerling potatoes, hari coverts, beets,apples, fingers.......

Note: Have all of your ingredients ready before you begin  I.E. Mise en Place baby . Once you start, the fondue will come together quickly, and during this time it must be constantly stirred. The fondue must not come to a boil during this time.

Combine brandy, arrow root, salt, 1/2t. black pepper or more or less nobody will judge, and nutmeg in a small bowl, stirring to dissolve the arrowroot. Set aside.  Slurrry it tis.
Add wine and garlic(when fondue pot is empty rub the whole clove of garlic all over the inside of pot to purfume the party) into a large heavy saucepan or fondue pot. Heat over medium heat until tiny bubbles form, giving the wine a fizzy appearance without bringing to a boil. Add cheese one handful at a time, whisking constantly until each handful is melted before adding the next – do not let the fondue boil.
Once cheese is added, continue stirring one minute – do not let the fondue boil, broken record....
Stir in slurry. Continue stirring until mixture thickens to fondue consistency. ( If your fondue remains thin, add 1 more tablespoon arrow root diluted with 2 tablespoons white wine.) If using Porcini, stir the mushrooms into the cheese at this point. Remove from heat. Pour cheese into a warm fondue pot if necessary. Serve immediately hopefully with big glasses of Kabinet a hot tub a bubblin and some Rev. Al Green a croonin. Clothing optional or even have a key party.....

Eat up let the cheese drip down your chin have some levity and just be in the moment of a party food of the Seventies and a survival meal for Shepards.


Mamma loves you

It is the JOURNEY not the destination that counts...

Getting my ducks in a row before an event tomorrow. I love the process beyond the food. Its the visual feast of the supporting actors when a spread is presented that gets my heart beat going. The secrets behind the philosophy of form n function in still life. Oh Rocking out to Genesis Lamb Lies Down on Broadway..Its that kind of day. Pass the Single Malt....go on do something with your day. Scoot.
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The rough side of Silk

Yesterday was one hell of a storm and the lady birds got the ass end of the wet cold windy LATE MAY storm. Oprah my little black Silkie gives me the best eggs rain or shine this funny chicken never lets me down....So sitting here at home pulling a Yoko Ono and sat in bed all day pouring over my old cookbooks looking for my next kitchen adventure I realized people (in general) dont know how to cook a perfect egg. During my kitchen tenure when a young hopeful wanted a stint working with us, I'd give a test, a seemingly simple test. Make me eggs three ways. I would let the poor victim choose his methods but they had to be perfect. Easy? Hell no. To correctly, scramble, baste, fry,caudle or omlette is not the simple task it seems. The simple things can be the hardest.
    I consulted James Beard, Simca(Julias' Co author)The California Egg advisory, South Dakota Rotary cook book, Girl Scouts cook book, Joy, Mrs. Beeton's Book of cookery circa.1884 on and on a list of a thousand ways to get that egg done right. Do you add water to a egg to be scrambled or milk or cream do you add the salt after it is cooked or before ,it is said to bring toughness to eggs before cooking? arrghghghgh.
    ok. Kid gloves is the first rule. Gentle with this delicate orb of protein. High heat is going to be your enemy every time. Low flame, double burner and patience is the theme. Eggs solidify very fast and if the heat is not just right a curdled hot mess is sure to follow. OHHH and Mrs. Beeton (1884) recomends when choosing your egg , "apply your tounge to the large end of the egg,and,if it feels warm,it may be relied on as fresh."Well there you have it. AND in the winter months when the girls are not laying Mrs. B says I shoud slather my (not MINE but the chickens)eggs in lard and store in sawdust not touching each other in a dry dark place like the larder.Good god I've been doing it all wrong.
JOY OF COOKING 1943 IRMA ROMBAUR
SCRAMBLED EGGS
Melt in iron skillet over LOW heat 1T sweet cream butter browned
Beat and pour into the warm slillet  3 eggs and 3T top cream
When eggs begin to thicken ,break up eggs with a fork into sheds.When they are thick and custardy searve over buttered toast and sprinkle a pinch of salt.

There you have it. Now go practice its not so easy to get the feel for perfect custardy scrambled egg to a dry crusty rubber mess.

Simple, Seasonal and Local will always trump silly,over thought and out of season every time.
Get out of bed and practice the seemingly simple art of the egg. go on ...... 

RIVER CAFE ....THIS IS AN artisnal Cheese plate.

Went to check out the River Cafe formerly the River St Cafe and Cheese Shop.
Looked basically the same in side minus the small "coffin" cooler of cheeses and fresh local products. More room to sit. Very nice looking composed salads in the case and a small menu on chalk board. Ok good start. I look up (bit high but small space) there were some nice breakfast items and a small selection of lunch nibbles. Ohhh sweet a Cheese plate an ARTISINAL CHEESE plate at that for $11.00 bucks. Ok let's see what these ladies have to say about said Cheese Plate...."Hi , so what cheeses do you have today on the cheese plate" I ask with a smile. UHHHH pregnant pause. "Uhh hmm I don't know maybe Gouda?". "Oh can you see what cheeses being artisinal and all I'd love to know" so she asked a cute girl in the pantry area what the selection was. " We have Gouda, Blue and Carmody" "Great what type of Blue and where? I know Carmody awesome. Gouda? Milk? Region, age?" You'd thought I'd asked her if her if she had Beaver milk cheese. She looked at me like I was an idiot. Sighed at me and told me finally Point Reyas Blue, Carmoday and some three year Gouda maybe goat no idea from where. I asked to taste the gouda still not deterred. She brought out a plastic wrapped hunk of Definitely Rembrandt Gouda(mass produced Dutch Cows milk) shaved me a piece that was all plastic taint hell and walked away. Uhhhh WTF? For $11.00 people should know what they are getting not attitude. I gave up ordered a yumm VERVE coffee Macchiatto and left.
Just bummed me out. I do not know if it is the same owner (I think Heidi) and knowing its a small local shop was so hoping it could have been better. There was ALFARO wines to sip but a half empty bottle of room temp Rose on display case? And the nasty exchange for no reason is not going to help bring folks in the door. Very pricey for such service. $12.00 for Cheese toast? And $11.00 for a trio of uninteresting mass produced cheeses minus Carmody I love. I give. So I post a picture of my event last Saturday at SKOV winery. That is Artisnal. That is Cheese and that's no Bull.
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Go Big or Go Home

It is always a difficult decision to voice one’s opinion publicly when negative - especially in a small town, but I was so disappointed by the meal created by Chef Jake Gandolfi at Center Street Grill this past Sunday I feel compelled to share - and what better place to that than my best foodie friends' blog.....don't worry - she can take the heat!


Jake’s previous experience as a caterer came out on Sunday night. Most items appeared to have been prepped several hours prior to service and ultimately came out cold. There were several, complicated elements to most of the dishes which, I believe, contributed to the failure. Last, many items were not in season currently - Soup: Saffron Split Pea Puree topped w/ Melted Leeks and Pacific Prawn and a Prickly Pear Sorbet that had been enhanced with food coloring.

The ultimate low was the 3rd course – or Salad: Pickled Purple Cabbage and Golden Beets over Fried Corn Tortilla topped w/ Braised Pork Belly and Pomegranate Seeds. The tortilla was cold, greasy and could not be cut with a knife and fork. The Pork Belly had apparently not been braised long enough, and due to being served room temperature, it was gelatinous and lacked that ooey, gooey, spreadable quality the belly attains when carmelized in a sautee pan just moments before reaching the table.

In the end, he had that gregarious charm that wins you over, but I would suggest that Master Chef Jake spend a few nights behind the line and learn the artistry of serving food to order. We were only 40 people after all. Next dinner is scheduled for March 20th and they are shooting for 100 people....beware if you are one of them.